After that, the next time I disconnected a line I heard a hiss and got some bubbles indicating that it had at least a little pressure. I did look around at the joints and found a few drops under one of them so I tightened it up and I think it helped a little. I pumped it about 30 times for good measure then hooked the splitter and the brake lines back up but I still couldn't get much pressure in the lines and couldn't get a single drop of fluid out the bleed screws. I tried bleeding the master cylinder in the following manner: it was already mounted in the car and level, and brake switch was installed.I screwed a piece of metal brake line into the main outlet and bent the open end down into the reservoir and pumped the brakes.the first time I hit the brakes I got bubbles but not after the first stroke. Looks like you were posting while I was typing, Alan. I now have riveted shoes on the front, needless to say. The rotted cylinder had also allowed brake fluid to leak past the piston cups and destroy the glue holding the bonded brake shoe lining to the shoe. I eventually gave up and took it to our local chapter's T-bird mechanic extrodinaire (another VERY good reason to get involved with your local VTCI chapter!), who found the loose hose and that one wheel cylinder had rusted up inside, even though sitting dry for about 1-1/2 years. I had bench-bled it by mounting it in a bench vise, then running an old piece of steel line from the outlet back into the reservoir, and pushed the piston with a screwdriver until no bubbles could be seen, then mounted it in the car. The master cylinder I started with also had a chip in the top rim of the reservoir that allowed fluid to spew all over the engine bay when put under pressure - a few passes with a bastard file resulted in a smooth, level surface for the MC cap gasket to seal against. It ended up that I had one hose that was loose enough at one of the front wheel cylinders to let air back into the system. I even went to great lengths to build a homemade pressure bleeder out of a small garden pump sprayer, with a modified master cylinder cap and shut-off valve, to push the fluid through. I struggled with it for about a month of weekends. I went through the whole experience of new stainless steel lines, rubber flex hoses (including the correct rear one for my '63) and replacement wheel/master cylinders, and not being able to get the system bled last year. This better work! I'm getting tired of being stuck on this one thing that should be the simple part after replacing every single brake part in the whole car. I'll probably also try bleeding the master cylinder into itself ("bench bleeding") using only one hole so the pressure has noplace else to go. Next thing I'll try tomorrow is pre-filling the brake lines partway with a syringe (tip from a buddy). Finally had to come in because it got too cold after dark.yeah I'm jealous of that California weather. I tried bleeding again on the front brakes and couldn't get a drop of fluid to come out. No luck.got a couple tiny bubbles the first time I hit the brakes but it failed to do much more than that, gave it like 30 or 40 pumps for good measure. I tightened up the self-adjusters on the front brakes and tried bleeding the master cylinder into itself from the port in the splitter where the rear brake line was attached. Close the bleeder and repeat at each wheel, making sure to top off the master cylinder each time.My shop manual shows a "compensation port" in the master cylinder which is a second hole farther in the direction of the piston travel but mine doesn't have one.is that bad? If you check the hose it should be full of fluid with no bubbles. Top off the master cylinder, then pump the brake pedal a few times. Now, just put the other end of the tube over bleeder, and open it. Pour just enough fluid into the jar to cover the end of the hose - this way no air can be sucked back into the system. To make your own, drill a hole in the lid of the jar that's just big enough to squeeze the hose through without it falling out. You can buy a set-up like the one pictured above, with the added bonus of a magnet to keep the fluid higher than the caliper, for $5 at most auto parts stores. You will also need a length of hose that fits over the brake bleeder nipple. You can make one yourself from any clean jar or bottle with a lid you happen to have around. This technique is nearly as simple as using gravity, but is also much faster, is the bleed bottle.
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